Amazonia

When trying to talk about this land the first thing that comes is a sigh, a sigh that could, in one single breath, absorb all the air of this world.

 My first encounter with this magical region began in Coca (Ecuador).From there I began to delve into this jungle. That not only draws you into the depths of herself, but also invites you to learn its secrets, haunting and enchanting.

From Coca to Rocafuerte, the border with Peru. The boat that took me to meet this new world, some parents or missionaries who have been in the jungle for more than 30 years. They gave me a first critical look at the evolution of this region of Ecuador and its people and how society, money and the black gold can buy more than one soul. Here started the life, traditions, knowledge and respect. Stifles of personality, values and languages. Life.


For a few days in Rocafuerte, i lived with a family of Cesar Rodas and saw the nearby National Park, Yasuní.





It was the first time in a forest, which unknown to me, would steal my heart, like it were a part of me, and my being was here. For the magic of this environment returned a peace to my heart, and the least part of it, was offered to thank the forest for such a gift.

Meanwhile, there I was hoping and spending my time. Waiting for a ship that no one knew when it would arrive.

 

 


News came of the Ghost Ship. He had been seen by Santa Clotilde. This time the boat called himself Jeisabela II and was believed to be in Pantoja in two days.


 

So I gathered my things as Peru had spoken.





Upon reaching the customs police, I had to deal with my illegal presence in Ecuador, my own error and ignorance, and now they could deny me entry into Peru. Eventually the lady who served me was very sympathetic, and stamped my passport and I finally left the border. My new friend, Susan and I,
‘La Gringa’, had breakfast and chatted in the customs house with Marisela for over 2 hours, until our boat, sounded their siren tone. It was time to go for an adventure.




From Pantoja to Masan took us four days. Four days in a very simple boat, which we all travel in one and the same cabin. As the hours diminished the number of beds multiplied.




On board and up any passage, for in this jungle are all equal. So there were pigs, chickens, ducks, parrots, turtles, buffalo skins, merchandise, kilos and kilos of bananas, cassava, fruits, rice, oil ...... Now I can understand what he went through, the man they called biblical Noah.




Travelling in these rivers is not only a pleasure to take in, but also to the stomach. At each stop, like a catering service, a group of women afanadas, climb aboard to sell their products. A delight with the most fresh and curious dishes of this creek.




More than 50 stops and 4 days of travel, during which preceded with incredible sunsets.






We arrived at Masan, where we crossed to the other side of town and experienced placid, warm and friendly Amazon life.




Iquitos is no more than 45 minutes by speedboat and then you arrive in this city. Its the biggest in the world whose only access is by river. One was short of breath watching over 75,000 motorcycle taxis roam the streets lazily. In a frantic tangle everywhere, because there cannot go anywhere and the city nearest road is 3 days by boat. So do not run. Take it easy!!

Iquitos is a city of contrasts, strong impreciones, and has three distinct parts. The center, the richest. The periphery where people live less well, like any big city. This is joined by the mid town, the river and the neighborhood of Bethlehem.




Here life elapses in water. Its streets are traveled by canoe, selling any type of service.




The houses are stuck with stacks of 4 meters to the ground. During the dry season people live on the bottom. Now, when the river grows, life moves to the high place. Others however are constructed so that they log on giant floats. So the house both up and down are in a harmonious dance with this enigmatic river.




Almost all the goods and foodstuffs for the city go through this neighbourhood.




Bethlehem market is the richest and most picturesque I have seen. In it, you can diveristy from the most exotic fruits, to even the strangest animal species..








In the passage gather all sellers of natural remedies. Countless herbs, roots, seeds, skins and teeth. Passage made of the most varied natural medicine market in the continent.




Here cooking is throughout. And you can find some more dishes typical of the Amazon, such as Inchicapi, Sarapera, or famous Zuris tacachos.




A delicious cooked Paichi, the biggest fish of the Amazon, which can weigh up to 250kg.





In Bethlehem, they are known to work hard, to bring home a pair of soles to eat, where everyone lends a hand as best they can. Collecting scrap and selling it..




Very close to 30minutes away from Iquitos, lays San Andres, the community of Boras.




Simple people, natives of the forest that has changed their lives, beliefs and language. In only 20 years and it is almost lost. Hardly knowing the arts of hunting and fishing as before. Today, these people have already taken on the needs of the civilized or developed world, however they want to call one another. They have created it.



Today they are dressing up in traditional clothes, to dance for the tourists, who still believe the people are living in Lanchama suits, immersed in the jungle and producing artesaníia based Chambira.




Cupay is a part of the Peña family. We got homely and family warmth from their lives. It were as if we were part of his family.





The family of Mary and Cesar Cupay not only welcomed us but taught us a lot of the forest and its animals. As presented in your dreams to advertise things. It was very nice to be present in their everyday tasks.







A family that unabashedly show you their simple lives and let you enjoy it.




A perfect place to leave everything aside to rest, think, and let the forest share a little more about you.




Time passes, but it does not matter. There is nothing more to do in this town other than walk and play, that where twenty families live.





A place where time passes in front of you, but it does not matter. It is only time.





From here and after time had escaped, from the reality that surrounded us, I went back to Iquitos. Here is a place that is sad, grey, with broken hearts. As the reality of this jungle, sometimes it is not pleasant for everyone.




Thousands of trees felled in the forest, expected to be labelled and sent to another home.





The helplessness, anger and frustration. I did run away from this place. Trying to find one where the joy of its people made me forget the pain in my chest. It was so after 2 days on the river, I found the community of Laguna.




Here people cannot stop laughing and joking. In three days all the people know you and you go from being a stranger to being a part of them. Not that I was in the back, but it was a strange sensation, and I anticipated that this place was going to leave many memories.




Here, time passes quickly, between the heat and laughter.




I did not want to leave this place without knowing all its inhabitants, without mixing with them.




Therefore I entered into the biggest heart there, the Breast Gaya.




In the Pacaya Samiria National Park I met the rest of the inhabitants of this region.




Cut off from the rest of the world for more than 4 days, meeting its inhabitants, the Paucarcillos, Guacamallos, parrots, herons, monkeys, and Huamayo. Trees that walk as Pona, or remedies such as Ojeda, or other mythical Lupuna. Hiding legends such as Chápchico or Ayaimamas. This region and its legends are full of magic.




Between games and fun.




With the endless toys that life gives us.




And many, many laughs. What I found was a community of Lagunas.





But I had to leave. So, without too much thought, I continued up the river.




It is hard to break away from a place like this. And its inevitable sometimes gets a little sad.




But I promise that one day I will return. Return, for it has taken a part of my heart that is of the forest.