Treking Kuelap

From Chachapollas, as a field of operations, i decided to do a trek, a kind of loop in which i would pass different towns in the region, each with its own motives of intrest. it was difficult to arrive to them by car as the roads were in constant road works. Cutting the route takes many hours.




To begin with, i was in isolation, at the well known waterfall Gotta. Apparently it is the 3rd or 4th highest in the world. After a month in the forest , i needed to stretch my legs and i was told it was a trek for a couple of hours. And thus it was, after just 2 hours of walking, there was Gotta, withy the elegance that characterises the falls.
The falling water from a height of around 700 meters.




After this trip, and the backpack full with the necessities, to walk was all that was left to do. I started to route in Karajia. Here there were some Sarcophagi housed in the walls of one of the canyons that cuts the region.




Around these mysterious tombs, you can find human remains without difficulty. Bones, that after some soil erosion and other winged plunderer of tombs, has left for display, for those wishing to discover at the foot of the sarcophagus.




Returning to Coechan, the initial starting point. A man took pity on the backpackers and transported us in his truck, a grateful 10 kms.




From, and already with a full stomach, i took the course Bethlehem Valley. We arrived after 6 hours of a pleasant walk. underneath the mountain we expecting, meandering, the river that crosses in a smooth zig zag valley.




It was time for a comfortable rest. we pitched the tent and as in this region, we couldnt get camping gas, so we had no choice but to improvise. We fabricated a stove with a can of tuna, cotton and alcohol from the pharamacy.
That night we made a tasty pasta with corn soup.




The next day we were back on the road, not knowing that we were more than 20 kms from the town of Congon. We took our backpacks and began to move. After 4 hours of heavy hearted walking along a forest track, we began to glimpse the town of Congon. This was a very simple village in the mountains, known for funerary constructions, which are pre-Inca in this hill.
The people survive on the few tourists who pass through, and from the coffee that grows wild on the hillsides of this rugged region.






Decade after decade, its people have been dedicated to collecting coffee that grows in the wild on the slopes of the surrounding mountains. The scent of this precious drink, prepared here in craft form, breathes in the air, in an atmosphere where it seems that over the years, it has not elapsed.




At breakfast, as expected, we ate fresh eggs with rice and had a tasty coffee.




This day from Congon to Chotamal was hard. With a uneveness of 1500meters, we had to walk among the coffee plantations. The aroma of these was evident at every step. But occasionally the air changed direction and you could smell a sweet cocoa scent, which grows wild in this region. It was the first time i had made a trek with a chocolate fragrance. After 6 hours of endless climbing, through humid forests, we reached our destination. One more day and we would arrive in Kuelap. The famous city of Amurayada on top of a hill. So with energy for another day, i wake up and continue to walk.




The road is a little monotonous for the path runs through a forest path. But the landscape makes it more bearable. This is a rural land, even where the smallest lend a hand.




Thus after 5 hours of walking you pass by Maria to the city of Kuelap.




There, from the top of the fortress, you can see all the adjacent territory. No doubt that its situated in a strategic place. Once inside its walls, it still breathes and you can feel the force of the inhabitants of this place. its not difficult to imagen how life was between these walls. At times you think you can hear them, see the smoke from their houses and the bustling of the people in the streets.






The night caught up with us and there was no choice but to walk at night to Tingo, then the next day, to grab a cart to Leimebanba. That night the moon wanted to join us on the roas and graciously offered to illuminate our path. After arming the store and taking a nap in the village of Tingo, a truck of food, agreed to take us to Hirebahuena.
It was more likely for us to be able to grab a car from Tingo to Leimebanba, our final destination.




After 1 hour on a dusty track, mounted on a truck, we arrive at Hierbahuena.




This town has been in full developement or destruction,depending on how you look at it.It is a tiny town that is halfway between Cajamarca and Leimebanba. The life in these places passes quietly until Sunday arrives. then everyone runs.




And they put their hands to work.




It is market day. In which you can find everything you need. Really though, the importance of this market is for the animals. A simple town, but full of life and details..
It is a worthwhile stop if only to go to the bathroom.




Upon arriving at Leimebanba you must make a mandatory stop and go to buy cheese and bread at the bakery Briggit. Marita will attend you with the kindness that characterises her and her family and there you will eat the best bread in the region., if not from Peru. Furthmore, its the only place that knows how to make French bread.




Although, if you really want something more chilly, you only have to ask on the plaza.




The entire route was full of history and culture. Where paradoxically even todays people are not able to agree access to it.